热带海洋学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (4): 110-121.doi: 10.11978/2020093

• 海洋地质学 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于风暴水流能量分布对海南岛小东海珊瑚巨砾成因的分析*

王媛琪1(), 杨阳2, 周亮3, 汪亚平1, 高抒1()   

  1. 1.华东师范大学河口海岸学国家重点实验室, 上海 200241
    2.南京师范大学海洋科学与工程学院, 江苏 南京 210023
    3.江苏师范大学地理测绘与城乡规划学院, 江苏 徐州 221116
  • 收稿日期:2020-08-22 修回日期:2020-11-17 出版日期:2021-07-10 发布日期:2020-12-01
  • 通讯作者: 高抒
  • 作者简介:王媛琪(1997—), 女, 上海市人, 硕士研究生, 主要从事海洋沉积动力学研究。email: 51193904031@stu.ecnu.edu.cn
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(41530962);国家自然科学基金项目(41706095);国家自然科学基金项目(41706096)

Interpreting the origin of coastal boulders on a coral reef flat at Xiaodonghai of Hainan Island based on storm wave energy analysis

WANG Yuanqi1(), YANG Yang2, ZHOU Liang3, WANG Yaping1, GAO Shu1()   

  1. 1. State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal University, Shanghai 200241, China
    2. School of Marine Science and Engineering, Nanjing Normal University, Nanjing 210046, China
    3. School of Geography, Geomatics and Planning, Jiangsu Normal University, Xuzhou 221116, China
  • Received:2020-08-22 Revised:2020-11-17 Online:2021-07-10 Published:2020-12-01
  • Contact: GAO Shu
  • Supported by:
    National Natural Science Foundation of China(41530962);National Natural Science Foundation of China(41706095);National Natural Science Foundation of China(41706096)

摘要:

波致水流的能量差异有助于风暴和海啸巨砾的区分。本文基于这一思路, 进行风暴波浪和波致水流的能量分析, 给出海岸珊瑚巨砾在风暴潮期间以推移质方式输运的动力学过程表达, 推算出风暴巨砾的理论输运距离。结合海南岛极端事件历史记录, 得出海南岛小东海风暴巨砾在礁坪的分布格局, 并与该海区的巨砾实际分布进行对比。结果表明, 小东海风暴巨砾分布与巨砾的质量、形状及风暴潮能量密切相关。研究区现场观测的大部分巨砾沉积分布符合风暴巨砾的理论空间分布格局, 因而判断其为风暴潮成因堆积。未来经过模拟假设条件的完善, 并构建相应海啸水流输运模式, 可形成用以区分风暴、海啸巨砾的完整判据。

关键词: 风暴巨砾, 波能分布, 风暴潮, 物质输运, 巨砾成因判据, 海南岛

Abstract:

Storm and tsunamis boulders may be distinguished by analyzing wave energy dissipation patterns. Here, we use the principles of storm energy conservation and the transport by storm-induced flow, to establish a theoretical distribution pattern of storm boulders on a coral reef flat. The movements of coral boulders with different sizes during a storm event are quantified, to derive their transport distances. The method is applied to the Xiaodonghai coral reef flat of Hainan Island, in combination with the information on historical typhoon events. The result is generally in agreement with the in situ records of the boulders, indicating that the deposition of the boulders is controlled by the storm energy level and the physical properties of the boulders, i.e., the boulder deposits at Xiaodonghai are caused by storm events. In the future, a combined analytical procedure may be established if the storm- and tsunami-induced transport theories are further improved, with improved assumptions for modelling.

Key words: storm boulders, wave energy distribution, storm surge, material transport, criteria for boulder deposit, Hainan Island

中图分类号: 

  • P736.213