热带海洋学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (5): 77-85.doi: 10.11978/2018120

• 海洋调查与观测 • 上一篇    下一篇

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

朱士兵,胡丹妮,张会领,曾春华,李泽华,李志强()   

  1. 广东海洋大学电子与信息工程学院, 海洋工程学院, 广东 湛江 524088
  • 收稿日期:2018-11-14 修回日期:2019-03-24 出版日期:2019-09-20 发布日期:2019-10-09
  • 通讯作者: 李志强
  • 作者简介:朱士兵(1992— ), 男, 河南省商丘市人, 硕士研究生, 研究方向为海岸资源与环境。E-mail: 26585759@qq.com
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金(41676079);广东海洋大学创新强校工程项目(Q18307)

Analysis of short-term temporal and spatial changes and sedimentary dynamics at the middle section of Haikou Bay Beach *

Shibing ZHU,Danni HU,Huiling ZHANG,Chunhua ZENG,Zhehua LI,Zhiqiang LI()   

  1. College of Electronic and Information Engineering, College of Ocean Engineering, Guangdong Ocean University, Zhanjiang 524088, China
  • Received:2018-11-14 Revised:2019-03-24 Online:2019-09-20 Published:2019-10-09
  • Contact: Zhiqiang LI
  • Supported by:
    National Natural Science Foundation of China(41676079);Project of Enhancing School with Innovation of Guangdong Ocean University(Q18307)

摘要:

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。

关键词: 海滩剖面, 时空变化, 经验正交函数, 沉积物, 台风

Abstract:

Beach evolution is an important topic in beach morphodynamic research. Based on beach profile data and surface sediment data observed for consecutive 33 days at the middle section of Haikou Bay Beach, characteristics of beach profile changes and sediment dynamics were analyzed. The empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis results showed that the profile variation contains four modes during the observation period, which corresponded to the beach construction process by swells, the beach erosion process by seas induced by local wind, the erosion process by typhoons, and the adjustment of characteristic topography, respectively. Influences of swells and seas on the beach profile were modulated by tide level. The analysis of beach profile variation and the geological background showed that Haikou Bay Beach has the characteristics of sheltered beach. Results also showed that grain size parameters of sediment were sensitive to beach changes, and can provide more abundant information on beach evolution.

Key words: beach profile, temporal and spatial variation, empirical orthogonal function, sediment, typhoon

中图分类号: 

  • P737.13