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热带海洋学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (2): 39-47.doi: 10.11978/2024107CSTR: 32234.14.2024107

• 海洋水文学 • 上一篇    下一篇

孤立波作用下三维堡礁地形附近波浪传播变形及爬高研究

钟丹妮1(), 姚宇1,2(), 周婷1,2   

  1. 1.长沙理工大学水利与环境工程学院, 湖南 长沙 410114
    2.水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室, 湖南 长沙 410114
  • 收稿日期:2024-05-23 修回日期:2024-07-02 出版日期:2025-03-10 发布日期:2025-04-11
  • 通讯作者: 姚宇
  • 作者简介:

    钟丹妮(2000—), 女, 湖南省岳阳市人, 硕士研究生, 从事近海水动力学研究。email:

  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划课题项目(2021YFC3100500); 湖南省科技创新计划项目(2022RC3034)

Study on wave transformation and run-up around the three-dimensional barrier reef under the action of solitary waves

ZHONG Danni1(), YAO Yu1,2(), ZHOU Ting1,2   

  1. 1. School of Hydraulic and Environmental Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China
  • Received:2024-05-23 Revised:2024-07-02 Online:2025-03-10 Published:2025-04-11
  • Contact: YAO Yu
  • Supported by:
    National Key Research and Development Program of China(2021YFC3100500); Science and Technology Innovation Program of Hunan Province, China(2022RC3034)

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摘要：

通过采用水平二维的Boussinesq方程的FUNWAVE-TVD (fully nonlinear wave model with total variation diminishing) 数值模型模拟了孤立波在三维珊瑚堡礁附近的波浪传播变形和岸滩爬高。首先通过已有的物理试验对模型进行了验证, 随后分析了不同珊瑚礁宽度、口门宽度和口门位置对堡礁附近波浪传播变形和爬高的影响。珊瑚礁的存在能够有效减小孤立波的作用, 随着珊瑚礁宽度的增加, 波高减小得更为迅速, 整个环岛的爬高值不断减小, 背浪面附近的爬高值很小且存在一定的不稳定性。珊瑚礁对中央岛屿海岸爬高的削弱作用随着珊瑚礁宽度的增加而减小; 随着口门宽度的增大, 口门附近潟湖内波高增大的范围变大。口门宽度对爬高的影响在中央岛屿迎浪面一定范围内比较显著, 随着口门宽度的增大, 该范围内中央岛屿迎浪面的爬高增大, 最大爬高由双峰向单峰转变, 在此范围之外的爬高值几乎不受口门宽度的影响; 随着波浪来波方向与口门夹角的增大, 口门附近潟湖内孤立波波高增大的范围减小, 口门位置的改变仅仅影响岛屿上与口门相接近区域的爬高, 这个影响区域随着波浪来波方向与口门夹角的增大向口门后方偏移。

关键词: Boussinesq方程, 孤立波, 波浪爬高, 珊瑚堡礁

Abstract:

In this paper, the FUNWAVE-TVD (fully nonlinear wave model with total variation diminishing) numerical model based on the two-dimensional horizontal Boussinesq equations was used to simulate the wave propagation and run-up near a three-dimensional barrier reef. Firstly, the model was verified by existing physical experiments. Subsequently, the effects of different reef widths, gap widths and gap locations on wave transformation and run-up around the three-dimensional barrier reef were analyzed. The results show that the existence of reefs can effectively reduce the impact of solitary waves. As the width of the reef increases, wave height decreases more rapidly, and wave run-up around the whole island drops continuously. The values of run-up near the leeward side are very small and exhibit some variability. The run-up decline due to reefs around the central island coastline decreases as the reef width increases. As the gap width increases, the extend of wave height increase in the lagoon near the gap increases. The influence of the gap width on the run-up is evident within a certain range on the windward side of the central island. As the gap width increases, the run-up on the windward side of the central island increases in this area, and the maximum run-up shifts from bimodal to unimodal. Outside this range, wave run-up is almost unaffected by the gap width. As the angle between the direction of the incident wave and the gap increases, the extent of wave height increase in the lagoon near the gap decreases. Moreover, the change of the gap location only affects the run-up in the region close to the gap of the central island, and this affected region shifts towards the back of the gap as the angle between the direction of the incident wave and the gap increases.

Key words: Boussinesq equation, solitary waves, wave run-up, barrier reef

中图分类号: 

  • P731.22