基于XBeach-NH的大糙率礁面波浪运动数值模拟

doi:10.11978/2024211

热带海洋学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (5): 31-38.doi: 10.11978/2024211CSTR: 32234.14.2024211

基于XBeach-NH的大糙率礁面波浪运动数值模拟

姚宇¹^,²(), 刘小娜¹, 周宝宝¹, 周婷¹^,²()

1.长沙理工大学水利与海洋工程学院, 湖南长沙 410114
2.水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室, 湖南长沙 410114

收稿日期:2024-11-20 修回日期:2025-02-19 出版日期:2025-09-10 发布日期:2025-10-14
通讯作者: 周婷
作者简介:
姚宇(1982—), 男, 湖南省湘潭市人, 博士, 从事珊瑚礁海岸水动力学研究。email: yaoyu821101@163.com
基金资助:
国家重点研发计划项目(2021YFC3100500); 长沙理工大学2023年研究生创新项目(CSLGCX23058)

Numerical simulation of wave motion over large roughness reef surfaces based on XBeach-NH

YAO Yu¹^,²(), LIU Xiaona¹, ZHOU Baobao¹, ZHOU Ting¹^,²()

1. School of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China
2. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China

Received:2024-11-20 Revised:2025-02-19 Online:2025-09-10 Published:2025-10-14
Contact: ZHOU Ting
Supported by:
National Key Research and Development Program of China(2021YFC3100500); Changsha University of Science and Technology 2023 Graduate Student Innovation Project(CSLGCX23058)

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 采用波浪相位解析的非静压模型(XBeach non-hydrostatic, XBeach-NH)添加了基于Morison方程的拖曳力项, 对大糙率礁面的波浪的运动特征及礁面拖曳力系数进行了数值模拟仿真分析, 通过对光滑礁面和粗糙礁面上不同位置自由液面时间序列以及波高和平均水位沿礁分布对模型进行了验证。文章应用校核好的数值模型对比分析光滑礁面和粗糙礁面时礁缘附近及礁坪上自由液面时空分布特征, 最后利用XBeach-NH模型模拟的结果校核出所有粗糙礁面实验工况最优拖曳力系数值。结果表明, XBeach-NH模型能够较好地模拟波浪的沿礁运动过程, 在其基础上加入基于Morison方程的拖曳力项能够合理地模拟粗糙礁面阻力特性。糙率单元的存在导致波浪受到更大的底部摩阻的损耗, 粗糙礁面较于光滑礁面的沿礁的波高增水显著减小。波浪传播过程出现高阶谐波和自由波, 光滑礁面和粗糙礁面均会出现二次甚至更高次谐波, 礁面糙率单元的存在会明显减小二次谐波的量级。在粗糙礁面, 糙率单元对波能的产生有明显耗散现象。小水深且波高较小时拖曳力系数较大, 这与浅水时水流阻力增大有关, 大周期(长波)时拖曳力系数较大, 而波高较大(波浪的非线性较强)时拖曳力系数的变化取决于礁坪水深。

关键词: 礁面糙率, XBeach-NH模型, 波浪传播变形, 珊瑚礁地形

Abstract:

The wave phase-resolving non-hydrostatic model (XBeach-NH) is enhanced by incorporating a drag term based on the Morison equation to numerically simulate and analyze wave motion characteristics and drag coefficients on large-roughness reef surfaces. Model validation is performed by comparing the time series of free surface elevations at various positions, as well as wave height distributions and mean water levels along the reef, for both smooth and rough reef surfaces. The validated numerical model is then employed to compare spatiotemporal distribution characteristics of free surface elevations near the reef edge and on the reef flat for both smooth and rough surface conditions. Furthermore, simulation results are used to determine optimal drag coefficient values for all experimental conditions involving rough reef surfaces. Results indicate that the XBeach-NH model effectively simulates wave propagation along reefs, and the Morison-based drag term reasonably captures the resistance characteristics of rough reef surfaces. The presence of roughness elements induces greater bottom frictional damping, resulting in significantly smaller wave height increases along rough reef surfaces compared to smooth ones. Higher harmonics and free waves emerge during wave propagation, with both smooth and rough reef surfaces exhibiting second or even higher-order harmonics. Notably, reef roughness substantially reduces second harmonic magnitudes. On rough surfaces, wave energy experiences significant dissipation due to roughness elements. Drag coefficients are larger under conditions of shallow water depth and small wave heights, attributable to increased flow resistance in shallow conditions. Longer wave periods (long waves) also yield large drag coefficients, while under large wave height conditions (strong nonlinearity), drag coefficient variations primarily depend on reef flat water depth. This study of wave motion characteristics under large coral reef surface roughness provides scientific insights for disaster prevention and mitigation along coral reef coasts during extreme wave events such as typhoons.

Key words: reef surface roughness, XBeach-NH model, wave propagation and transformation, coral reef topography

中图分类号:

P731.22

姚宇, 刘小娜, 周宝宝, 周婷. 基于XBeach-NH的大糙率礁面波浪运动数值模拟[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2025, 44(5): 31-38.

YAO Yu, LIU Xiaona, ZHOU Baobao, ZHOU Ting. Numerical simulation of wave motion over large roughness reef surfaces based on XBeach-NH[J]. Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2025, 44(5): 31-38.

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基于XBeach-NH的大糙率礁面波浪运动数值模拟

Numerical simulation of wave motion over large roughness reef surfaces based on XBeach-NH

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