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热带海洋学报

• • 上一篇    

椭圆余弦波在典型岛礁上传播演变特性的试验研究

张泽1, 屈科1, 2, 3, 李玮1, 王超1   

  1. 1.长沙理工大学, 水利与海洋工程学院, 湖南 长沙 410114;

    2.洞庭湖水环境治理与生态修复湖南省重点实验室, 湖南 长沙 410114;

    3.水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点试验室, 湖南 长沙 410114;

  • 收稿日期:2025-05-07 修回日期:2025-06-21 接受日期:2025-07-04
  • 通讯作者: 屈科
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划课题(2022YFC3103601)

Experimental study on propagation and evolution characteristics of cnoidal waves over typical island reefs

ZHANG Ze1, QU Ke1, 2, 3, LI Wei1 , WANG Chao1   

  1. 1.School of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410004, China;

    2. School of Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 41000, China;

    3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China

  • Received:2025-05-07 Revised:2025-06-21 Accepted:2025-07-04
  • Supported by:
    National Key Research and Development Program of China(2022YFC3103601)

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摘要： 椭圆余弦波能很好地描述浅水区域波浪运动特性，对于精确地描述近岸水体运动具有很大的实际意义。为探究椭圆余弦波在典型岛礁地形上的传播演变规律，本研究基于波浪水槽物理模型实验，重点分析了入射波高、礁坪水深及波浪周期对波浪非线性特征、能量耗散及水动力参数的影响。研究表明，岛礁地形显著增强波浪非线性效应，礁前斜坡区波形锐化明显，礁坪区波面呈锯齿状并伴随相位滞后；入射波高增大会引起更强烈的非线性效应，引发高次谐波增长，促使波浪增水及爬高显著提升，同时反射系数因透射增强而降低；但礁坪水深增加会导致波浪非线性效应减弱，反射系数单调递减，深水条件下垂向动量通量增强，爬高呈非线性增长；波浪周期对波浪参数的影响较为复杂，T=2.25s时波能聚集最显著，高次谐波表现最为明显。短周期（T<2.25s）下强烈的浅化变形加剧波形畸变，而长周期（T>2.25s）下波能耗散导致特征衰减。综上所述，该研究为珊瑚礁生态保护和海岸工程设计提供了关键实验依据。

关键词: 物理模型试验, 椭圆余弦波, 波浪增水, 水动力特性, 非线性特征

Abstract: Cnoidal waves are capable of effectively characterizing wave motion in shallow water regions, holding significant practical value for the precise description of nearshore hydrodynamic processes. To investigate the propagation and evolution patterns of cnoidal waves across typical reef-lagoon systems, this study conducted physical model experiments in wave flumes, with focused analysis on the influences of incident wave height, reef flat submergence, and wave period on wave nonlinear characteristics, energy dissipation, and hydrodynamic parameters. The results demonstrate that reef topography substantially enhances wave nonlinearity, with conspicuous waveform steepening in the fore-reef slope zone and sawtooth-shaped wave profiles accompanied by phase lag over reef flats. Increased incident wave height induces stronger nonlinear effects, promoting higher harmonic growth and significantly enhancing wave setup and run-up, while reducing reflection coefficients due to enhanced transmission. However, greater reef flat submergence weakens nonlinear wave effects and causes a monotonic decrease in reflection coefficients. Under deeper water conditions, vertical momentum flux intensifies, and run-up exhibits nonlinear growth. The influence of wave period manifests complex patterns: maximum wave energy concentration and the most pronounced higher harmonics occur at T=2.25 s. Short-period waves (T<2.25s) experience intensified shoaling deformation that aggravates waveform distortion, whereas long-period waves (T>2.25 s) exhibit characteristic attenuation through energy dissipation. This research provides critical experimental evidence for coral reef ecosystem conservation and coastal engineering design.

Key words: physical model experiment, cnoidal wave, wave setup hydrodynamic characteristics, nonlinear characteristics