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热带海洋学报

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潜堤对岛礁次重力波波浪特性影响的试验研究

李玮1，屈科1,2,3，王超1，喻仞石1，张泽1   

  1. 1.长沙理工大学水利与环境工程学院，湖南 长沙 410114；

    2. 洞庭湖水环境治理与生态修复湖南省重点实验室，湖南 长沙 410114；

    3. 水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室，湖南 长沙 410114

  • 收稿日期:2024-10-21 修回日期:2024-12-09 接受日期:2024-12-11
  • 通讯作者: 屈科
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划课题(2022YFC3103601); 国家自然科学基金重点项目(51839002); 湖南省自然科学基金项目(2021JJ20043); 2024年长沙理工大学专业学位研究生“实践创新与创业能力提升计划”项目(CLSJCX24033)

Experimental study on the influence of submerged breakwater on the wave characteristics of infragravity waves on islands and reefs

LI Wei1, QU Ke1,2,3, WANG Chao1, YU Renshi1, ZAHNG Ze1   

  1. 1. School of Hydraulic and Environmental Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology,Changsha 410114, China;

    2. Key Laboratory of Dongting Lake Aquatic Eco-Environmental Control and Restoration of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China;

    3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province,Changsha 410114, China;

  • Received:2024-10-21 Revised:2024-12-09 Accepted:2024-12-11
  • Contact: quke
  • Supported by:
     National Key Research and Development Program of China (2022YFC3103601); National Natural Science Foundation of China Key Project (51839002); Hunan Provincial Natural Science Foundation Project (2021JJ20043); "Practical Innovation and Entrepreneurial Ability Enhancement" Program of Postgraduates with Professional Degrees of Changsha University of Science and Technology (CLSJCX24033)

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摘要： 在我国南海，部分珊瑚岛礁的填海造陆工程虽已完成，但这些地处远海的岛礁，由于其特殊的海洋地理环境，极易受到诸如海啸、风暴潮等海洋自然灾害的影响。鉴于岛礁自身所携带的防护能力在应对这些灾害时存在局限性，无法充分保障岛上人员和设施的安全，因此在岛礁附近建造海岸防护措施显得尤为必要。本文基于波浪水槽试验，开展了潜堤对次重力波作用下岛礁波浪传播演变特性及爬高影响的研究，并深入探讨了潜堤对于岛礁上水动力特性，平均水位，波浪爬高等三个方面的影响。研究结果表明，潜堤显著改变了次重力波的水动力特性，促使波浪提前破碎，进而在礁坪区域引起低频长波振幅的增加。此外，在有效波高和谱峰周期变化的情况下，潜堤对礁坪平均水位具有显著影响，可使平均水位升高。但随着礁坪水深的增加和潜堤位置的前移，礁坪的平均水位呈现下降趋势。进一步观察发现，潜堤的存在对长波爬高在改变波浪爬高中的贡献并不显著，无论潜堤是否存在，低频长波均在波浪爬高中起主要贡献。但是，随着潜堤相对位置的减小以及礁坪水深的增加，长波爬高对爬高的贡献将随之降低，转变成短波爬高起主导作用。

关键词: 波浪水槽试验, 连续潜堤, 次重力波, 水动力特性, 平均水位, 波浪爬高

Abstract: In the South China Sea, although land reclamation projects on some coral reefs have been completed, these reefs located in far seas are extremely vulnerable to marine natural disasters such as tsunamis and storm surges due to their special marine geographical environment. Given that the protection capabilities carried by the reefs themselves have limitations in dealing with these disasters and cannot fully ensure the safety of personnel and facilities on the islands, it is particularly necessary to construct coastal protection measures near the reefs. Based on wave flume experiments, this paper conducts research on the propagation and evolution characteristics of reef waves and the impact on wave run-up under the action of infragravity waves by submerged breakwaters, and deeply discusses the impact of submerged breakwaters on three aspects of hydrodynamic characteristics, average water level, and wave run-up on the reefs. The research results show that the submerged breakwater significantly changes the hydrodynamic characteristics of infragravity waves, promotes wave breaking in advance, and then causes an increase in the amplitude of infragravity waves in the reef flat area. In addition, in the case of changes in effective wave height and spectral peak period, the submerged breakwater has a significant impact on the average water level of the reef flat and can increase the average water level. However, as the water depth of the reef flat increases and the position of the submerged breakwater moves forward, the average water level of the reef flat shows a downward trend. Further observation reveals that the existence of the submerged breakwater does not have a significant contribution to the contribution of long-wave run-up in changing wave run-up. Whether the submerged breakwater exists or not, infragravity waves play a major role in wave run-up. However, as the relative position of the submerged breakwater decreases and the water depth of the reef flat increases, the contribution of long-wave run-up to run-up will decrease and transform into sea-swell wave run-up playing a dominant role.

Key words: Wave flume experiments, continuous submerged breakwaters, infragravity waves, hydrodynamic characteristics, mean water level, wave run-up