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热带海洋学报

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规则波作用下台礁附近水平二维水动力特征数值模拟研究

刘呈宇1，周胜男1, 2*，姚宇1, 2，曹永港3, 4   

  1. 1. 长沙理工大学水利与海洋工程学院, 湖南 长沙 410114;

    2. 水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室, 湖南 长沙 410114

    3. 自然资源部南海调查中心，广东 广州 510300；

    4. 自然资源部海洋环境探测技术与应用重点实验室，广东 广州 510300



  • 收稿日期:2026-04-10 修回日期:2026-05-29 接受日期:2026-06-02
  • 通讯作者: 周胜男
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划(2024-89); 国家自然科学基金项目(52471267); 长沙理工大学研究生科研创新项目

Numerical study of 2DH hydrodynamic characteristics around the platform reef under regular waves

LIU Chengyu1, ZHOU Shengnan1, 2*, YAO Yu1, 2, CAO Yonggang3,4   

  1. 1. School of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China;

    2. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China;

    3. South China Sea Marine Survey Center, Ministry of Natural Resources, Guangzhou 510300, China;

    4. Key Laboratory of Marine Environmental Survey Technology and Application, Ministry of Natural Resources, Guangzhou 510300, China



  • Received:2026-04-10 Revised:2026-05-29 Accepted:2026-06-02
  • Supported by:
    National Key Research and Development Program of China(2024-89); National Natural Science Foundation of China (52471267); Graduate Research and Innovation Project of Changsha University of Science and Technology

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摘要： 本文采用 XBeach 相位解析非静压模型（XBeach-NH），对规则波作用下水平二维（2DH）水动力响应特征开展数值模拟研究。首先验证了模型在类似台礁的椭圆浅滩地形条件下模拟波浪传播变形过程的可靠性。随后构建了概化三维台礁地形，并开展了一系列数值模拟仿真，以分析不同入射波条件（包括波高、波周期和礁坪水深）以及礁体形态因素（包括礁坪宽度和礁坪形状）对礁坪区域波高与平均水位空间分布的影响。研究结果表明：入射波高与入射波周期是控制礁坪水动力响应特征的关键因素，随着入射波高和入射波周期增大，波浪折射和绕射现象增强，礁坪平均波高和礁坪增水幅值均相应增大；礁坪水深是控制礁坪波浪破碎和平均水位抬升的关键因素，随着礁坪水深增大，折射绕射现象增强，礁坪透射波高增大，而礁坪增水幅值减小；礁坪宽度对礁坪水动力特性具有重要调节作用，随着礁坪宽度增加，波浪破碎带增大，折射绕射现象减弱；礁坪透射波高减小，而礁坪增水幅值增大；礁坪形状显著影响波高的空间分布及折射绕射强度，随着礁坪沿着波浪传播方向变得更狭长，破碎带缩小；折射绕射现象减弱，礁坪透射波高分布越不均匀，增水幅值也相应减小。上述水动力特性为进一步分析礁坪潜在输沙通道及沙洲形成机制提供了理论参考。

关键词: 台礁, 规则波, 波浪破碎, 波浪增水, XBeach-NH模型

Abstract: This study employs the phase-resolving non-hydrostatic XBeach model (XBeach-NH) to systematically investigate the two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) hydrodynamic characteristics under regular wave forcing. The model’s performance in simulating wave propagation, transformation and breaking over an elliptical shoal was validated by comparing the model simulations with existing experimental data. Subsequently, an idealized three-dimensional reef platform is constructed and a series of numerical experiments are conducted to examine the impacts of varying incident wave conditions (including wave height, wave period, and reef-flat water depth) and reef morphological factors (including reef-flat width and reef-flat shape), on the spatial distributions of wave height and mean water level across the reef flat. Results indicate that incident wave height and wave period are the primary factors controlling the hydrodynamic response over the reef flat. With increasing incident wave height and wave period, wave refraction and diffraction are enhanced, while the mean wave height and wave setup over the reef flat increase accordingly. Reef-flat water depth is the primary factor controlling wave breaking and mean water level over the reef flat. As reef-flat water depth increases, wave refraction and diffraction become more evident, transmitted wave height over the reef flat increases, whereas wave setup decreases. Reef-flat width has an important impact on the hydrodynamic response over the reef flat. As reef-flat width increases, the wave-breaking zone is extended and wave refraction and diffraction are weakened; transmitted wave height over the reef flat decreases, whereas wave setup increases. In addition, reef-flat planform shape significantly affects the spatial distribution of wave height and the magnitude of wave refraction and diffraction. As the reef flat becomes narrower along the wave propagation direction, the wave-breaking zone is shortened, wave refraction and diffraction are reduced, transmitted wave height over the reef flat becomes more unevenly distributed, and wave setup decreases accordingly. These hydrodynamic patterns provide insights into potential sediment transport pathways across reef flats and the processes governing cay formation.

Key words: platform reef, regular wave, wave breaking, wave setup, XBeach-NH model