基于风暴水流能量分布对海南岛小东海珊瑚巨砾成因的分析*

doi:10.11978/2020093

热带海洋学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (4): 110-121.doi: 10.11978/2020093CSTR: 32234.14.2020093

基于风暴水流能量分布对海南岛小东海珊瑚巨砾成因的分析^*

王媛琪¹(), 杨阳², 周亮³, 汪亚平¹, 高抒¹()

1.华东师范大学河口海岸学国家重点实验室, 上海 200241
2.南京师范大学海洋科学与工程学院, 江苏南京 210023
3.江苏师范大学地理测绘与城乡规划学院, 江苏徐州 221116

收稿日期:2020-08-22 修回日期:2020-11-17 出版日期:2021-07-10 发布日期:2020-12-01
通讯作者: 高抒
作者简介:王媛琪(1997—), 女, 上海市人, 硕士研究生, 主要从事海洋沉积动力学研究。email: 51193904031@stu.ecnu.edu.cn
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(41530962);国家自然科学基金项目(41706095);国家自然科学基金项目(41706096)

Interpreting the origin of coastal boulders on a coral reef flat at Xiaodonghai of Hainan Island based on storm wave energy analysis

WANG Yuanqi¹(), YANG Yang², ZHOU Liang³, WANG Yaping¹, GAO Shu¹()

1. State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal University, Shanghai 200241, China
2. School of Marine Science and Engineering, Nanjing Normal University, Nanjing 210046, China
3. School of Geography, Geomatics and Planning, Jiangsu Normal University, Xuzhou 221116, China

Received:2020-08-22 Revised:2020-11-17 Online:2021-07-10 Published:2020-12-01
Contact: GAO Shu
Supported by:
National Natural Science Foundation of China(41530962);National Natural Science Foundation of China(41706095);National Natural Science Foundation of China(41706096)

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

波致水流的能量差异有助于风暴和海啸巨砾的区分。本文基于这一思路, 进行风暴波浪和波致水流的能量分析, 给出海岸珊瑚巨砾在风暴潮期间以推移质方式输运的动力学过程表达, 推算出风暴巨砾的理论输运距离。结合海南岛极端事件历史记录, 得出海南岛小东海风暴巨砾在礁坪的分布格局, 并与该海区的巨砾实际分布进行对比。结果表明, 小东海风暴巨砾分布与巨砾的质量、形状及风暴潮能量密切相关。研究区现场观测的大部分巨砾沉积分布符合风暴巨砾的理论空间分布格局, 因而判断其为风暴潮成因堆积。未来经过模拟假设条件的完善, 并构建相应海啸水流输运模式, 可形成用以区分风暴、海啸巨砾的完整判据。

关键词: 风暴巨砾, 波能分布, 风暴潮, 物质输运, 巨砾成因判据, 海南岛

Abstract:

Storm and tsunamis boulders may be distinguished by analyzing wave energy dissipation patterns. Here, we use the principles of storm energy conservation and the transport by storm-induced flow, to establish a theoretical distribution pattern of storm boulders on a coral reef flat. The movements of coral boulders with different sizes during a storm event are quantified, to derive their transport distances. The method is applied to the Xiaodonghai coral reef flat of Hainan Island, in combination with the information on historical typhoon events. The result is generally in agreement with the in situ records of the boulders, indicating that the deposition of the boulders is controlled by the storm energy level and the physical properties of the boulders, i.e., the boulder deposits at Xiaodonghai are caused by storm events. In the future, a combined analytical procedure may be established if the storm- and tsunami-induced transport theories are further improved, with improved assumptions for modelling.

Key words: storm boulders, wave energy distribution, storm surge, material transport, criteria for boulder deposit, Hainan Island

中图分类号:

P736.213

王媛琪, 杨阳, 周亮, 汪亚平, 高抒. 基于风暴水流能量分布对海南岛小东海珊瑚巨砾成因的分析^*[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2021, 40(4): 110-121.

WANG Yuanqi, YANG Yang, ZHOU Liang, WANG Yaping, GAO Shu. Interpreting the origin of coastal boulders on a coral reef flat at Xiaodonghai of Hainan Island based on storm wave energy analysis[J]. Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2021, 40(4): 110-121.

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巨砾编号	长轴长度/m	中轴长度/m	短轴长度/m	Corey形状因子	质量/kg	巨砾位置与礁坪前缘的距离/m
XD01	2.94	2.58	2.11	0.8	19820	64.6
XD02	1.83	1.82	1.18	0.6	4914	53.8
XD03	2.15	1.72	1.19	0.6	6370	46.5
XD04	1.63	1.34	1.21	0.8	3986	47.6
XD05	1.88	1.67	1.22	0.7	5587	40.2
XD06	2.53	2.44	1.67	0.7	8627	31.8
XD07	2.29	1.85	1.19	0.6	6625	49.2
XD08	2.48	2.30	1.51	0.6	6334	43.1
XD09	3.47	1.93	1.39	0.5	6479	57.1
XD010	2.15	1.91	1.27	0.6	4350	70.6
XD011	2.83	2.46	1.64	0.6	9335	32.6
XD012	2.48	2.46	1.61	0.6	8427	37.1
XD013	3.12	2.47	1.17	0.4	9682	39.4
XD014	2.61	2.25	1.54	0.6	7225	57.1
XD015	3.34	2.23	1.48	0.5	9045	71.9
XD016	2.72	2.61	1.61	0.6	10683	116.0
XD017	3.10	2.22	1.31	0.5	7680	84.2
XD018	3.16	3.02	1.62	0.5	13777	72.0

Corey形状因子	巨砾质量/(×10³kg)	波高H=13m时的理论搬运距离/m	波高H=6m时的理论搬运距离/m
0.4	0.1	277.8	60.0
	1	127.6	28.1
	5	76.4	17.4
	10	61.7	14.3
	15	54.4	12.8
	20	49.9	12.0
0.6	0.1	285.6	61.7
	1	136.2	30.0
	5	81.1	18.3
	10	65.5	15.1
	15	57.6	13.5
	20	52.8	12.5
0.8	0.1	299.2	64.6
	1	139.4	30.6
	5	83.7	18.9
	10	67.2	15.5
	15	59.3	13.8
	20	54.3	12.8

巨砾编号	最小理论搬运距离/m	最大理论搬运距离/m	巨砾与礁坪前缘的实测距离/m
XD01	12.9	54.4	64.6
XD02	18.5	82.3	53.8
XD03	17.2	75.5	46.5
XD04	20.2	89.9	47.6
XD05	18.0	78.7	40.2
XD06	15.9	69.5	31.8
XD07	17.0	74.8	49.2
XD08	17.2	75.8	43.1
XD09	16.6	72.8	57.1
XD010	19.1	84.8	70.6
XD011	15.4	66.9	32.6
XD012	16.0	70.0	37.1
XD013	14.5	62.3	39.4
XD014	16.5	74.5	57.1
XD015	15.1	65.6	71.9
XD016	14.8	64.1	116.0
XD017	16.2	68.8	84.2
XD018	13.5	57.5	72.0

巨砾编号	巨砾与礁坪前缘的实测距离/m	风暴潮海浪波高/m
XD01	64.6	14.2
XD015	71.9	13.5
XD016	116.0	17.8
XD017	84.2	14.3
XD018	72.0	14.6

基于风暴水流能量分布对海南岛小东海珊瑚巨砾成因的分析^*

Interpreting the origin of coastal boulders on a coral reef flat at Xiaodonghai of Hainan Island based on storm wave energy analysis

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