热带海洋学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (3): 44-56.doi: 10.11978/YG2020013CSTR: 32234.14.YG2020013

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珊瑚岛礁海岸多尺度波流运动特性研究新进展

郑金海1,2(), 时健1,2, 陈松贵3   

  1. 1.河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室, 江苏 南京210024
    2.河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院, 江苏 南京210024
    3.交通运输部天津水运工程科学研究院, 天津 300456
  • 收稿日期:2021-01-08 修回日期:2021-02-21 出版日期:2021-05-10 发布日期:2021-02-21
  • 通讯作者: 郑金海
  • 作者简介:郑金海(1972—), 男, 福建省莆田市人, 教授, 博士, 从事港口、航道、海岸及近海工程研究。email: jhzheng@hhu.edu.cn
  • 基金资助:
    国家杰出青年科学基金(51425901)

Recent research advances on multi-scale coastal wave and current characteristics of coral reefs and islands

ZHENG Jinhai1,2(), SHI Jian1,2, CHEN Songgui3   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China
    2. College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China
    3. Tianjin Research Institute for Water Transport Engineering, Ministry of Transport, Tianjin 300456, China
  • Received:2021-01-08 Revised:2021-02-21 Online:2021-05-10 Published:2021-02-21
  • Contact: ZHENG Jinhai
  • Supported by:
    National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars(51425901)

摘要:

珊瑚岛礁海岸波流动力复杂、地貌形态特殊、工程响应未知, 波浪传播变形和波生环流对建筑物安全、地形地貌演变、防灾减灾和生态环境保护都有重要影响。本文从大范围大洋海脊导波与岛礁波浪俘获、中等尺度的礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统波流特性、建筑物前沿的局部波流特性及工程响应等三种不同空间尺度上综述了波流运动特性研究的新进展, 主要包括深水大范围的海脊波浪引导与岛礁波浪俘获的理论解析、礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统整体物理模型实验、基于大水槽实验的建筑物影响下波流演化过程及越浪量和波浪力计算方法, 并提出亟需深入研究的重点内容。

关键词: 珊瑚岛礁, 波流运动, 波浪俘获, 礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统, 防浪建筑物

Abstract:

The coasts of coral reefs and islands are characterized with very complex wave-current dynamics, unique morphology and largely unknown engineering responses, where wave transformation and wave-induced currents have significant impacts on the infrastructure safety, morphological evolution, disaster prevention, and eco-environmental protection. Recent research advances on these topics are reviewed with respect to three spatial scales, e.g., the large-scale long-wave guiding and trapping, the medium-scale hydrodynamics in a reef-lagoon-channel system, and the local wave-structure interaction. This paper includes the descriptions of, specifically, theoretical findings of guided and trapped waves over ocean ridges and around reef islands, two-dimensional horizontal wave basin experiment of a reef-lagoon-channel system, and new methods to estimate wave overtopping and forces on the seawall based on a large-scale wave flume experiment. Further research prospects are also suggested.

Key words: coral reef and island, wave and current dynamics, trapped wave, reef-lagoon-channel system, wave protection structures

中图分类号: 

  • P731.2