基于XBeach-NH的大糙率礁面波浪运动数值模拟

doi:10.11978/2024211

Abstract

Abstract:

The wave phase-resolving non-hydrostatic model (XBeach-NH) is enhanced by incorporating a drag term based on the Morison equation to numerically simulate and analyze wave motion characteristics and drag coefficients on large-roughness reef surfaces. Model validation is performed by comparing the time series of free surface elevations at various positions, as well as wave height distributions and mean water levels along the reef, for both smooth and rough reef surfaces. The validated numerical model is then employed to compare spatiotemporal distribution characteristics of free surface elevations near the reef edge and on the reef flat for both smooth and rough surface conditions. Furthermore, simulation results are used to determine optimal drag coefficient values for all experimental conditions involving rough reef surfaces. Results indicate that the XBeach-NH model effectively simulates wave propagation along reefs, and the Morison-based drag term reasonably captures the resistance characteristics of rough reef surfaces. The presence of roughness elements induces greater bottom frictional damping, resulting in significantly smaller wave height increases along rough reef surfaces compared to smooth ones. Higher harmonics and free waves emerge during wave propagation, with both smooth and rough reef surfaces exhibiting second or even higher-order harmonics. Notably, reef roughness substantially reduces second harmonic magnitudes. On rough surfaces, wave energy experiences significant dissipation due to roughness elements. Drag coefficients are larger under conditions of shallow water depth and small wave heights, attributable to increased flow resistance in shallow conditions. Longer wave periods (long waves) also yield large drag coefficients, while under large wave height conditions (strong nonlinearity), drag coefficient variations primarily depend on reef flat water depth. This study of wave motion characteristics under large coral reef surface roughness provides scientific insights for disaster prevention and mitigation along coral reef coasts during extreme wave events such as typhoons.

Key words: reef surface roughness, XBeach-NH model, wave propagation and transformation, coral reef topography

CLC Number:

P731.22

YAO Yu, LIU Xiaona, ZHOU Baobao, ZHOU Ting. Numerical simulation of wave motion over large roughness reef surfaces based on XBeach-NH[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2025, 44(5): 31-38.

Figures/Tables 7

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References 23

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Numerical simulation of wave motion over large roughness reef surfaces based on XBeach-NH

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