Journal of Tropical Oceanography

Previous Articles    

Experimental study on propagation and evolution characteristics of cnoidal waves over typical island reefs

ZHANG Ze1, QU Ke1, 2, 3, LI Wei1 , WANG Chao1   

  1. 1.School of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410004, China;

    2. School of Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 41000, China;

    3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China

  • Received:2025-05-07 Revised:2025-06-21 Accepted:2025-07-04
  • Supported by:
    National Key Research and Development Program of China(2022YFC3103601)

Abstract: Cnoidal waves are capable of effectively characterizing wave motion in shallow water regions, holding significant practical value for the precise description of nearshore hydrodynamic processes. To investigate the propagation and evolution patterns of cnoidal waves across typical reef-lagoon systems, this study conducted physical model experiments in wave flumes, with focused analysis on the influences of incident wave height, reef flat submergence, and wave period on wave nonlinear characteristics, energy dissipation, and hydrodynamic parameters. The results demonstrate that reef topography substantially enhances wave nonlinearity, with conspicuous waveform steepening in the fore-reef slope zone and sawtooth-shaped wave profiles accompanied by phase lag over reef flats. Increased incident wave height induces stronger nonlinear effects, promoting higher harmonic growth and significantly enhancing wave setup and run-up, while reducing reflection coefficients due to enhanced transmission. However, greater reef flat submergence weakens nonlinear wave effects and causes a monotonic decrease in reflection coefficients. Under deeper water conditions, vertical momentum flux intensifies, and run-up exhibits nonlinear growth. The influence of wave period manifests complex patterns: maximum wave energy concentration and the most pronounced higher harmonics occur at T=2.25 s. Short-period waves (T<2.25s) experience intensified shoaling deformation that aggravates waveform distortion, whereas long-period waves (T>2.25 s) exhibit characteristic attenuation through energy dissipation. This research provides critical experimental evidence for coral reef ecosystem conservation and coastal engineering design.

Key words: physical model experiment, cnoidal wave, wave setup hydrodynamic characteristics, nonlinear characteristics