潮汐影响下海滩前滨波浪传播耗能过程分析

doi:10.11978/2021080

Abstract

Abstract:

Based on the measured wave data of the foreshore profile at the Changle beach, the variation rules of wave parameters and energy dissipation process in the tidal process are discussed using statistical analysis and spectral analysis. The results show that the wave in the observation period is mainly mixed wave, and the spectrum type of each sensor is wide, and the multi-peak oscillation is observed. In the process of shoreward propagation, the form of wave energy dissipation is changed from narrow frequency domain to broad frequency domain, the energy distribution tends to be dispersed, the energy of high frequency wave decreases, but the energy of low frequency wave increases, and infra-gravity wave is generated after wave breaking. There is a good correlation between the energy attenuation and the wave propagation distance in the surf zone. The energy attenuation of the broken wave in the surf zone is about 98.3%. The tidal level has obvious modulating effect on waves. The incident wave energy increases with the increase of tidal water level, and the higher the water level is, the more dispersed the distribution of incident wave energy is. There is a significant positive correlation between the effective wave height and the tidal level in the surf zone. The spectral variation of each sensor in tidal process has obvious similarity with the wave spectral variation along the profile.

Key words: tides, wave parameters, wave spectrum, intertidal zone

CLC Number:

P731.22

SONG Jiacheng, QI Hongshuai, ZHANG Chi, CAI Feng, YIN Hang. Analysis of energy dissipation process of wave propagation in beach foreshore under the influence of tide[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2022, 41(4): 146-153.

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References 19

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统计参数	测点
统计参数	P1	P2	P3	P4	P5	P6
水深均值/m	4.72	4.05	3.33	2.66	2.00	1.38
有效波高均值/m	1.83	1.87	1.71	1.48	1.25	0.70
有效波周期均值/s	6.94	7.26	7.32	6.86	7.08	6.33
有效波陡均值	0.025	0.023	0.021	0.021	0.016	0.011
波能均值/(J·m^-2)	2529.79	2604.86	2262.28	1654.48	1143.96	437.73

测点	谱峰周期/s	最大谱密度/(m²·s)	谱尖度	谱宽度
P1	9.14	4.92	1.75	0.66
P2	9.14	4.44	1.56	0.68
P3	9.48	3.83	1.38	0.68
P4	9.48	2.06	1.16	0.75
P5	10.67	0.97	1.05	0.75
P6	36.57	0.46	0.72	0.80

时刻	谱峰周期/s	最大谱密度/(m²·s)	谱尖度	谱宽度
10: 20	8.53	3.60	1.87	0.68
11: 20	8.53	2.46	1.62	0.62
12: 20	9.14	2.00	1.58	0.66
13: 20	8.26	1.16	1.24	0.69
14: 20	8.53	0.50	0.99	0.75
15: 20	51.20	0.16	0.60	0.85
16: 20	42.67	0.16	0.47	0.89

Analysis of energy dissipation process of wave propagation in beach foreshore under the influence of tide

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