三亚近岸海浪观测特征及其对台风过程的响应

doi:10.11978/2022157

热带海洋学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (4): 25-35.doi: 10.11978/2022157CSTR: 32234.14.2022157

三亚近岸海浪观测特征及其对台风过程的响应

李骏旻¹^,²^,³(), 李博¹^,³, 陈武阳¹, 刘军亮¹^,³()

1.中国科学院南海海洋研究所, 热带海洋环境国家重点实验室, 中国科学院应用海洋学重点实验室, 广东广州 510301
2.三亚海洋生态环境工程研究院, 海南三亚 572000
3.南方海洋科学与工程广东省实验室(广州), 广东广州 511458

收稿日期:2022-07-13 修回日期:2022-08-31 出版日期:2023-07-10 发布日期:2022-09-01
作者简介:
李骏旻(1983—), 男, 广东省广州市人, 副研究员, 博士, 从事海洋动力过程研究。email: jli@scsio.ac.cn
基金资助:
海南省自然科学基金(422MS160); 广东省科技计划项目(2021B1212050023); 国家自然科学基金(42130404); 中国科学院前沿科学重点项目(QYZDJ-SSW-DQC034)

Observation characteristics of coastal waves in Sanya and their responses to typhoon processes

LI Junmin¹^,²^,³(), LI Bo¹^,³, CHEN Wuyang¹, LIU Junliang¹^,³()

1. State Key Laboratory of Tropical Oceanography, Key Laboratory of Science and Technology on Operational Oceanography, South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Guangzhou 510301, China
2. Sanya Institute of Ocean Eco-Environmental Engineering, Sanya 572000, China
3. Southern Marine Science and Engineering Guangdong Laboratory (Guangzhou), Guangzhou 511458, China

Received:2022-07-13 Revised:2022-08-31 Online:2023-07-10 Published:2022-09-01
Supported by:
Hainan Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China(422MS160); Science and Technology Planning Project of Guangdong Province of China(2021B1212050023); National Natural Science Foundation of China(42130404); Key Research Program of Frontier Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences(QYZDJ-SSW-DQC034)

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

在南海三亚湾南部部署了长期监测站位, 于2020年4—10月、2021年12月—2022年2月等时段开展了覆盖4个季节的海浪观测。在观测数据的基础上, 对该海域波浪要素的基本统计规律及其对台风过程的响应特征开展了系统的分析。结果显示, 观测站位处的海浪受风场、地形、岸线和潮流动力等局地因素影响明显, 呈现近岸浪特征。由于受到水下地形的削弱和岸线边界的诱导, 站位处波浪长期维持向北传播, 波高和波周期均相对较小, 其中有效波高和平均周期在大部分时间内分别低于1m和4s。由于受到潮流和海陆风等动力因素的影响, 波高呈现强烈的日变化特征, 在与流向相反(相同)时, 波高和波陡均明显上升(下降); 在同向较强风速的作用下, 波高和波陡亦明显上升。站位波浪要素对台风过程有着显著的响应, 在潮流的协同作用下, 波高显著上升。当台风过程离站位较近时, 波浪能量的频率分布向低频段加强的同时, 也向高频段扩展, 且方向分布发生明显改变; 如果路径离站位距离较远, 则波浪能量主要通过涌浪的形式传至站位, 能量分布主要向低频扩展而方向分布基本不变。

关键词: 波浪, 潮流, 台风, 现场观测

Abstract:

Long-term monitoring site was deployed in the southern Sanya Bay of the South China Sea, and continuous wave observations covering four seasons were carried out in April ~ October 2020 and December 2021 ~ February 2022. Based on the observational data, the basic statistical features of the wave in the sea area and their response characteristics to typhoon processes are systematically analyzed. The results show that the waves at the site are affected by local factors, such as wind field, bottom topography, shoreline, and current dynamics, thus showing characteristics of nearshore waves. Due to the weakening effect of shallow water topography and the control of shoreline boundary, the waves maintain long-term shoreward (i.e., northward) propagation with relatively small wave heights and periods, in which the significant wave heights and mean periods are less than 1 m and 4 s, respectively, for most of the time. Due to the influence of dynamic factors such as tidal current and sea-land breeze, the wave heights show a strong diurnal variation, and both wave heights and steepness increase (decrease) significantly when the flow direction is opposite to (the same with) the wave direction; driven by the strong wind speed in the same direction, the wave height and steepness also increased significantly. Waves respond significantly to the typhoon process, and the wave height increases significantly under the synergy of current. When the typhoon process is close to the site, the wave energy extends to both low and high frequencies, with the direction distribution changing significantly. If the path is far from the site, the wave energy mainly propagates to the site by the swell, and the energy distribution expands to low frequency while the direction distribution remains unchanged.

Key words: waves, tidal current, typhoon, in-situ observation

李骏旻, 李博, 陈武阳, 刘军亮. 三亚近岸海浪观测特征及其对台风过程的响应[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2023, 42(4): 25-35.

LI Junmin, LI Bo, CHEN Wuyang, LIU Junliang. Observation characteristics of coastal waves in Sanya and their responses to typhoon processes[J]. Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2023, 42(4): 25-35.

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三亚近岸海浪观测特征及其对台风过程的响应

Observation characteristics of coastal waves in Sanya and their responses to typhoon processes

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