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热带海洋学报

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潜堤对岛礁椭圆余弦波波浪特性影响的试验研究

王智弘1, 屈科1,2,3, 李玮1, 孙璐2, 李骏旻4, 陈武阳4, 赵恩金5   

  1. 1. 长沙理工大学 水利与海洋工程学院, 湖南 长沙 410114;

    2. 广东省韩江口-南澳岛海洋生态系统野外科学观测研究站, 广东 广州 510300;

    3. 水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点试验室, 湖南 长沙 410114;

    4. 中国科学院南海海洋研究所, 广东 广州 511458;

    5. 中国地质大学(武汉) 海洋学院, 湖北 武汉 430074



  • 收稿日期:2026-01-15 修回日期:2026-03-15 接受日期:2026-04-07
  • 通讯作者: 屈科
  • 基金资助:

    广东省韩江口—南澳岛海洋生态系统野外科学观测研究站开放基金(HNS202405); 国家重点研发计划课题(2022YFC3103601); 国家自然科学基金(52371295)

Experimental study on the influence of submerged breakwater on the wave hydrodynamic characteristics of cnoidal wave over coral reefs

WANG Zhihong1, QU Ke1,2,3, LI Wei1, SUN Lu2, LI Junmin4, CHEN Wuyang4, ZHAO Enjin5   

  1. 1. School of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China;

    2 Guangdong Provincial Field Observation and Research Station for Marine Ecosystem in Hanjiang River Estuary - Nanao Island Area, Guangzhou 510300, China;

    3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China;

    4 South China Sea Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Guangzhou, 511458, China;

    5. College of Marine Science and Technology, China University of Geosciences, Wuhan 430074, China





  • Received:2026-01-15 Revised:2026-03-15 Accepted:2026-04-07
  • Supported by:
    Guangdong Provincial Field Observation and Research Station for Marine Ecosystem in Hanjiang River Estuary-Nanao Island Area Open Funding(HNS202405); National Key Research and Development Program of China (2022YFC3103601); National Natural Science Foundation of China(52371295)

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摘要： 潜堤作为海岸防护的重要工程措施，其在珊瑚礁地形中的应用仍有待深入研究。同时，现有关于珊瑚礁浅水区波浪类型的研究相对单一，针对浅水环境下非线性波浪传播特性的系统分析仍较为匮乏。因此，本文基于物理水槽试验，系统探讨了潜堤布置于礁前斜坡时对珊瑚礁地形上椭圆余弦波传播特性的影响，重点分析了入射波高、礁坪水深及波浪周期对局部平均波高、波浪增水、波浪爬高以及波浪非线性特征的作用规律。结果表明，潜堤能够显著增强波浪反射与浅水变形，使波浪破碎位置明显前移，从而有效降低礁坪上的透射波高，减轻对礁坪基质及生态环境的冲刷破坏。同时，潜堤可削弱入射波高增大所引起的非线性增强效应，降低不对称度，使偏度的峰值前移至潜堤附近，并显著抑制传播过程中的非线性变化。试验还表明，礁坪水深对潜堤消浪性能影响显著，在本研究条件下，当礁坪水深为 0.030 m 时消波效果最佳。本研究成果可为珊瑚岛礁海岸防护工程的设计提供理论支撑，在提升防护效能的同时兼顾礁坪生态环境的稳定性。

关键词: 椭圆余弦波, 珊瑚礁, 潜堤, 非线性特征, 水动力特性

Abstract: As a critical engineering measure for coastal protection, the application of submerged breakwaters on coral reefs requires further investigation. Existing research on wave types in shallow reef waters remains limited, and systematic analysis of nonlinear wave propagation characteristics in such environments is still insufficient. Consequently, this study utilizes physical flume experiments to systematically explore the influence of submerged breakwaters, positioned on the fore-reef slope, on the propagation characteristics of cnoidal waves over coral reef topography. Focus is placed on analyzing the effects of incident wave height, water depth over the reef flat, and wave period on local mean wave height, wave setup, wave run-up, and wave nonlinear features. The results indicate that submerged breakwaters significantly enhance wave reflection and shallow-water deformation, causing the wave breaking point to shift seaward. This effectively reduces transmitted wave heights on the reef flat, thereby mitigating erosive damage to the reef substrate and ecological environment. Furthermore, the submerged breakwater weakens the enhancement of nonlinearity induced by increasing incident wave heights and reduces wave asymmetry. It causes the peak skewness to shift toward the vicinity of the breakwater and significantly suppresses nonlinear variations during propagation. Experimental data also reveal that water depth over the reef flat significantly influences the wave-dissipation performance; under the conditions of this study, optimal wave attenuation is achieved at a water depth of 0.030 m. The findings of this research provide a theoretical foundation for the design of coastal protection works on coral reefs, balancing enhanced protection efficiency with the stability of the reef flat ecosystem.

Key words: cnoidal wave, coral reef, submerged breakwater, nonlinear characteristics, hydrodynamic characteristics