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热带海洋学报

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涠洲岛西南珊瑚礁区沉积物粒度的时空变化特征及其对水动力的响应机制

陈海伦1, 梁作栋1, 余克服1, 2, 刘大军1, 覃河融1   

  1. 1. 广西大学 广西南海珊瑚礁研究重点实验室/珊瑚礁研究中心/海洋学院, 广西 南宁 530004;

    2. 南方海洋科学与工程广东省实验室(广州), 广东 广州 511458



  • 收稿日期:2026-02-09 修回日期:2026-04-28 接受日期:2026-05-07
  • 通讯作者: 梁作栋
  • 基金资助:

    广西壮族自治区青苗人才普惠性支持政策科研启动经费(ZX02080031024002); 广西科技基地和人才专项(AD25069075)

Spatiotemporal variations in sediment grain size and their response to hydrodynamics in the southwest coral reef area of Weizhou Island

CHEN Hailun1, LIANG Zuodong1, YU Kefu1, 2, LIU Dajun1, QIN Herong1   

  1. 1. Guangxi Laboratory on the Study of Coral Reefs in the South China Sea/ Coral Reef Research Center of China/ School of Marine Sciences, Guangxi University, Nanning 530004, China;

    2. Southern Marine Science and Engineering Guangdong Laboratory (Guangzhou), Guangzhou 511458, China



  • Received:2026-02-09 Revised:2026-04-28 Accepted:2026-05-07
  • Supported by:

     Emerging Scholars Foundation of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region (ZX02080031024002); Guangxi Science and Technology Program (AD25069075)

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摘要： 珊瑚礁区沉积物粒度时空分异特征直接关系造礁珊瑚生长环境，其对于常浪与极端波浪的响应机制更是量化生态系统韧性的关键。然而，该过程与水动力的定量关系尚不明确，制约了对珊瑚礁地貌稳定性及生态健康受水动力扰动影响的评估与预测。本研究基于涠洲岛西南岸礁区13个月的月度采样、粒度分析及波浪与海流数据，分析沉积物粒度对水动力的响应。结果表明，礁区表层沉积物以细砂为主，其粒径与分选性呈现显著的空间分异及季节波动，即西南侧沉积物粒径大、波动强；西-西北侧粒径小、分选优；分选系数呈夏秋与春冬相反的季节相位特征。经验正交函数分析显示，沉积物中值粒径空间格局的第一模态受波浪入射方向与礁坪地形耦合控制，强西南向浪驱动西南侧沉积物粗化，局地海流导致西部及西北部细化，台风事件显著强化此分异。第二模态的空间异步性受波浪与海流协同调控，波浪动力变化触发细颗粒再悬浮或沉降，季节性海流输运引起西北向堆积与东南向离岸过程，共同驱动全域尺度粗化与细化状态的周期性转换。本研究揭示了水动力作用下沉积物运移的动力机制，其空间分异受波浪非线性特征、海流流速流向共同调制，礁坪宽度与底质粗糙度通过调控波能耗散强度影响沉积物分选性。研究成果为理解珊瑚礁区水动力-沉积过程互馈机制提供了科学依据。

关键词: 珊瑚礁, 涠洲岛, 钙质沉积物, 粒度特征, 水动力

Abstract: Abstract: The spatiotemporal heterogeneity of sediment grain size in coral reef areas directly governs the habitat of reef-building corals, while its response to both normal waves and extreme wave events is critical for quantifying ecosystem resilience. However, quantitative linkages between this process and hydrodynamic forcing remain poorly constrained, hindering the assessment and prediction of geomorphological stability and ecological health under hydrodynamic disturbances. Analysis of 13-month monthly sediment samples with concurrent hydrodynamic data from Weizhou Island's southwestern reef flat demonstrates fine-sand dominance. Significant spatial heterogeneity exists with larger, more variable grains southwest contrasting smaller, better-sorted sediments west-northwest. The sorting coefficient exhibits opposing seasonal phases between summer-autumn and spring-winter. Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis indicates the first median grain size mode arises from coupled wave direction and reef topography where strong southwesterly waves coarsen southwestern sediments while local currents fine western and northwestern zones, with typhoons amplifying this pattern. The second mode's spatial asynchronicity reflects wave-current regulation wherein wave energy fluctuations trigger fine-particle resuspension or settling combined with seasonal current-driven northwest accumulation and southeast offshore transport. These processes collectively drive periodic domain-wide coarsening-fining state transitions. Sediment transport heterogeneity is modulated by wave nonlinearity and current velocity-direction interactions. Reef flat width and substrate roughness further influence sorting efficiency through wave energy dissipation regulation. These findings offer mechanistic insights into hydrodynamic-sedimentary feedback in coral reef systems.

Key words: coral reef, Weizhou Island, calcareous sediments, grain-size characteristics, hydrodynamic